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Assembly stages of blue print smocked dress

front, back and sleeves sewn together and pleated

first stage assembled pleated bishop dress
The front, back and sleeves have been sewn together and pleated.Bishop dress Sleeves Preparation for Pleating Pleat the bottom of the sleeves. With the pleating threads out flat hemstitch the raw edge and apply the lace. Join the sleeves to the front and back using tiny French seams (1/8”). Use a mark pen to transfer the seam allowance, usually 5/8”, on the right side of the fabric, front and back. Stay stitch a 5/8” seam with the wrong sides of the fabric together. Press the seam. Trim the seam so that there is a 1/16” seam allowance. To trim the seam, use your left hand to hold the seam and your right hand to hold the scissors. Slip the lower blade of the scissors under the raw edges. With both palms up and the scissors almost parallel to the seam line, trim close to the seam line. Fold the fabric along the seam line with the right sides of the fabric together. Sew a new 1/8” seam from the folded seam edge. Press the seam. Pleat the fabric around the neckline. Do not waste time sewing with cheap or old, dry thread on either conventional machine or serger (overlock machine). When pleating around the French seams turn the knob of the pleater very slowly to avoid the breaking of the pleater needles.

close up of pleats

close up, showing pleating.

pleats gathered

Pleats Gathered

rearranged, front on left

rearranged
back is to right

close up

close up

looking more like a dress

rearranged

lace added to sleeves

Smocking The Round Yoke Starting at the center of the front of the bishop dress stitch the selected smocking design. When smocking the yoke, remember that the turtleneck effect may be caused by tension when smock stitching too tight. When smocking around the round yoke, gradually, change the tension of the stitching as smocking each row away from the neckline so that the last row of the yoke is fairly loose to allow the bottom row to spread out nicely when the yoke is finished.

smocking with blue flowers added

blue flowers with yellow centers added

FINISHED Smocked DRESS view of back of dress

finished smocked dress, back of dress
finished smocked dress, back of dress

FINISHED DRESS, front view

front view finished dress

close up view of one of the flowers

close up of flower
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